Mountain
The Felikjoch, beside the Felikhorn, is the highest crossing in the Alps. The Felikhorn itself is an inconspicuous peak located just across the border in Italy.
Height
4,086 m
First ascent
19 August 1861
First climbed by
William Edward Hall, Jean-Pierre Cachat, Peter Perren, Josef-Marie Perren, J.F. Hardy, J.A. Hudson, C.H. Pilkington, A.C. Ramsay, T. Rennison, F. Sibson, R.M. Stephenson, Franz Lochmatter, Karl Herr and Stefan Zumtaugwald
Tips
Current route conditions
Conditions around the Felikjoch and Felikhorn have changed significantly in recent years.
Due to increasing crevasse formation, the crossing is currently no longer common or recommended in summer. The classic access from the Monte Rosa Hut is no longer possible at present.
In winter, the route can occasionally still be skied under good conditions, but only for experienced alpinists and with careful assessment of the current situation.
Access is now generally only possible from the Italian side (Capanna Quintino Sella).
About the tour
The Felikhorn (4,086 m) is a rather inconspicuous four-thousand-metre peak located southwest of the Felikjoch. The pass, at around 4,066 m, is one of the highest crossings in the Alps and connects the Mattertal with the Val de Gressoney.
In the past, the Felikjoch was a popular route between the Monte Rosa Hut and the Capanna Quintino Sella via the Zwillings Glacier and Felik Glacier.
Due to glacier retreat and changing conditions, this connection is now only partially or no longer feasible.