Matterhorn ascent
The Matterhorn’s astonishing beauty and fascinating history has been drawing visitors from around the world for more than a century. For many alpinists, climbing this mountain is both a challenge and a lifelong dream.
The Matterhorn
The Matterhorn can be climbed via the four ridges in summer and at the beginning of autumn. The standard Swiss route heads over the Hörnli ridge and was the route chosen by both Edward Whymper and Peter Taugwalder (Senior and Junior) for the first Matterhorn ascent on 14 July 1865. The standard Italian route heads over the Lion ridge. The Zmutt and Furgg ridges are rarely used as they are more challenging than the standard routes. There is a small emergency bivouac - the Solvay Hut - at 4,003 metres on the Hörnli ridge, fitted with an SOS phone.
First ascents
At 4,478 metres, this four-thousander was first climbed by a roped party of seven alpinists. On the descent, the four climbers at the front of the party (Michel Croz, Douglas Robert Hadow, Charles Hudson and Francis Douglas) fell to their deaths on the North face. A little under six years later, Lucy Walker was the first woman to reach the summit. Unlike the men’s first ascent, the first ascent by women wasn’t a head-to-head race with an Italian roped party, but with American climber Meta Brevoort. When Miss Walker learned of Brevoort’s arrival, she quickly assembled a party and was the first woman to reach the summit of the Matterhorn.
The following information is intended to help climbers prepare for a Matterhorn ascent. It is recommended to climb with a local mountain guide.
Matterhorn ascent with professionals
ZERMATTERS - your local mountain guide
Experience a safe and unforgettable Matterhorn ascent with our experienced regional mountain guides. Find the right guide for your adventure and benefit from their expertise and local knowledge. Your summit success starts here.
Alpine climbing
Matterhorn Ascent
At 4,478 m, the Matterhorn is the most difficult classic in the Alps. The climb and descent is done exclusively over rocks and ice, and it requires outstanding fitness and experience in rock climbing with and without crampons. The normal route is via the Hörnligrat and is only suitable for well-versed mountaineers accompanied by a mountain guide.
Hörnli hut at the foot of the Matterhorn
The Hörnli hut | Matterhorn hut is the focal point of activity at the foot of the Matterhorn and one of the key sites in the history of alpinism. Visitors from all over the world spend the night here before scaling the Matterhorn.
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Equipment hire
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